🔗 Share this article

In the mirror, I can see myself in huge shimmering pantaloons, visible only to me. Kids relax in a rock pool acting as sea nymphs, while in the next room rests a talking pea in a display case, alongside a towering pile of cushions. It represents the domain of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s highly cherished storytellers. I’m in this Danish town, located on Funen in the southern part of this Nordic country, to investigate the writer's timeless impact in his birthplace a century and a half after his death, and to discover a couple of enchanted tales of my own.

The Museum: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the town's cultural center celebrating the writer, including his childhood house. A curator notes that in past designs of the museum there was scant attention on his fairytales. Andersen's biography was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For guests who come to Odense seeking storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The renovation of Odense city centre, diverting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to rethink how the renowned native could be commemorated. A major architecture competition granted the architects from Japan the Kengo Kuma team the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the layout. The distinctive wood-paneled museum with interwoven spiral spaces debuted to significant attention in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we avoid discussing the writer, but we talk like the storyteller: with wit, sarcasm and viewpoint,” explains the curator. The outdoor spaces follow this philosophy: “The outdoor area for strollers and for large beings, it's created to make you feel small,” he notes, a goal accomplished by strategic landscaping, manipulating height, proportion and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Author's Influence

Andersen wrote several autobiographies and frequently changed his story. The museum takes this approach seriously; often the perspectives of his acquaintances or excerpts of letters are presented to gently question the author’s own version of events. “Andersen is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” notes the representative. The effect is a engaging swift exploration of his personal story and work, thought processes and most popular stories. This is provocative and playful, for mature visitors and youngsters, with a additional underground make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the children.

Exploring Odense

Back in the real world, the compact town of Odense is charming, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes painted in vibrant hues. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the road indicators feature the storyteller with his distinctive formal headwear, metal shoe prints provide a complimentary pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this focus reaches its height with the yearly HC Andersen festival, which celebrates the writer's impact through creativity, performance, theatre and music.

Recently, the week-long event had hundreds of events, the majority were free. During my time in Odense, I come across artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an author double telling stories. I hear feminist spoken-word pieces and observe an remarkable evening show including athletic artists lowering from the town hall and hanging from a mechanical arm. Future activities in the coming months are lectures, family art workshops and, broadening the oral history further than the writer, the city’s annual wonder event.

Every excellent fairytale destinations deserve a castle, and Fyn contains over a hundred manors and estates throughout the region

Pedaling Through History

Like most of Denmark, cycles are the perfect means to navigate in the city and a “bicycle route” winds through the city centre. From the local hotel, I pedal to the public waterside bathing area, then out of town for a loop around Stige Island, a small island joined by a bridge to the primary land. Town dwellers have outdoor meals here following their day, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment angling, paddleboarding or bathing.

Returning to Odense, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is derived from Andersen themes and narratives. The verse Denmark, My Native Land appears when I visit, and owner the host shares excerpts, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. This is a practice commonplace in my time in Odense, the local residents love a yarn and it seems that storytelling is continuously available here.

Historic Estate Tours

Every excellent magical places require a castle, and this region features numerous historic homes and stately homes throughout the region. Traveling briefly from town, I explore the historic fortress, Europe’s finely maintained historic fortress. Despite parts are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the personal dwelling of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his wife, the royal resident. I wonder if she can feel a tiny vegetable through a pile of {mattresses